Where to Eat Next
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VELVET
Grand Theatre, 608 1st St. S.W., Calgary, 403-244-8400, velvetgrand.com
An offshoot of the museum restaurant trend: the theatre restaurant. During intermission, the sexy red and black room fills with a buzzing audience observing diners at their meals – surprisingly civilized. The latest from Pat and Connie O’Connor of Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts makes good use of Alberta meat, including elk tournedos, bison carpaccio and game ribs.
Most user-friendly wine list
Divided into Old World and New, the affordable and wide-ranging menu offers a good selection by the glass.
WHITE GOOSE BISTRO
1205 3rd Ave., Prince George, 250-561-1002
Like other great chefs fleeing the urban hustle, Moreno Miotto, formerly of Bis Moreno in Vancouver (number two in our 2003 survey), has returned to Prince George. More Canadian chefs should repatriate food this good to their hometowns. The bright, spotless space was a former corner deli, but the classic French bistro fare transcends the simplicity of the room to become something unexpectedly delightful.
Signature dish
Chef Miotto’s Ravioli Aragosta (ravioli stuffed with lobster in a tomato basil sauce), a favourite held over from Bis Moreno.
CENTURY
432 Richards St., Vancouver, 604-633-2700, centuryhouse.ca
The momentum of Nuevo Latino restaurants (started by Montreal’s Raza, number four in last year’s survey) continues apace. The voluminous space is decorated neo-Andean style, with the former vault of this 1911 building now transformed into a very secure private room. The kitchen builds astonishing flavours in its non-traditional cassoulet of braised rabbit, kurobuta bacon, salchichón, oxtail and beans.
The new old-fashioned
Order the Che (gin and Cointreau muddled with cucumber and brown sugar) from a cocktail list that’s divided into this, last and next century.
MISTRAL
2585 W. Broadway, Vancouver, 604-733-0046, mistralbistro.ca
The classic French bistro never disappoints. No surprises, just skilful cooking and pure flavours from Jean-Yves and Minna Benoit, former proprietors of Vancouver’s L’Emotion (number two in our 2002 survey). We appreciate the always knowledgeable service: A query on a Côtes du Rhône merited an erudite and illuminating dissertation on that noble region.
Reason to eat out
Dishes like cassoulet Castelnaudary (lamb shoulder, duck leg confit, lamb sausage and white navy beans) – delicious but often too impractical for the home chef.
SENOVA
1864 W. 57th Ave., Vancouver, 604-266-8643, senovarestaurant.ca
Every city needs an updated family restaurant as welcoming and friendly as this one. Manny Ferreira (restaurateur of Vancouver’s Le Gavroche) is bringing the Portuguese/Mediterranean food he grew up with to fortunate Kerrisdaleans. The Restricted Menu (for under-16s only) includes some appealing non-alcoholic drinks, like horchata (a traditional Mexican rice and almond milkshake).
Best nights to go
Sunday evening is dedicated to paella, and Thursday, it’s roast suckling pig, Bairrada style. 
Write to us: letters@enroutemag.net
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