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Special Feature

CABIN FEVER

A gallery hop around town starts at the Studio Gallery, where photographer Henry Dunsmore and etcher Doreen Foster curate a collection of island artists. Look for P. John Burden’s saturated, complex canvases: The wing of a bird appears in the creases of a man’s cheek; a dog’s face is revealed in the fold of a leaf. Around the corner, you’ll find Coach House Antiques.

Like the town itself, both local inns have a small-is-better philosophy, so the person who checks you in is also your server the next morning. The bright yellow wooden Orient Hotel, which opened in 1900, defines Victoria by-the-Sea’s understated hospitality. Ask for room 7, the new two-bedroom suite, or just stop in for afternoon tea.


On the way back to Ch’town, as locals dub Charlottetown, save time for the Skor, chocolate and caramel Wowie Cowie from Cows ice cream, a PEI institution.



Sea kayak up the Northumberland Strait at low tide with By-the-Sea Kayaking guide Paul Sheridan, who’s known to stop on a sandbar to dig for five- to eight-inch clams. Hint: Focus on the shoreline so you don’t overthink your stroke. If you tip, says Sheridan, “gravity will take over and you’ll just pop out.”

Make it a leisurely brunch at the Landmark Café. Their slab of homemade quiche carries a wicked dollop of hot sauce – the most risqué thing in town. If a play is on, pre-show dinner reservations are a must at Victoria Inn and Restaurant (left), where Crocs-shod chef Stephen Hunter keeps it local and seasonal, from soup to scallops.  



The north shore near Stanhope (about 45 minutes away) is still tops for luxury golf, but the public Glen Afton Golf Course offers instant golf gratification. Swing by the beachside holes 13 and 14 for views of the Northumberland Strait.

Photos: Shawn Mader (ice cream)


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