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CANADA’S BEST NEW RESTAURANTS 2004 (p. 4 of 5)
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | The Foodies | Nov '04
7 AIX CUISINE DU TERROIR
Hôtel Place d’Armes, 711, côte de la Place-d’Armes, Montréal
1-888-450-1887 www.aixcuisine.com
Founding chef Jannick Bouchard gets around. Accepting awards (like two Ulysses and a Dirona), appearing on the Today show and occasionally visiting prestigious New York and Chicago kitchens… it’s a miracle he finds time to cook. Discreetly situated in the Hôtel Place d’Armes, Aix is a subdued room in quiet tones of brown and cream with diaphanous curtains on exposed brick. Against this chic, romantic backdrop shine the elevated peasant dishes, such as a pan-fried crispy pork shank with homemade relish and dandelion vinaigrette, that define his remarkable cuisine.
8 AURORA BISTRO
2420 Main St., Vancouver, 604-873-9944 www.aurorabistro.ca
If the Jetsons ran a restaurant, it would look like this. A retro-futuristic design creates the vibe of hip, laid-back modernism in this east-side Vancouver bistro. Chef Jeff Van Geest makes local products, including an all-B.C. wine list, a priority in his contemporary West Coast cuisine. Tuesday to Thursday, the kitchen offers a three-course tasting menu that might include future classics like tempura zucchini blossom stuffed with smoked-sole mousse or a seared bison strip loin.
9 BU
5245, boul. Saint-Laurent, Montréal, 514-276-0249 www.bu-mtl.com
This wine bar’s effortless nonchalance belies some serious cooking, flawlessly paired with an outstanding and ever-changing selection of 30 wines available in flights or by the glass. The daily menu is brief but as vital as the wine. A light and creamy salt cod brandade shows true talent in the kitchen; delicate and intricately seasoned cabbage rolls are so good they must move from occasional offering to menu staple. A sophisticated clientele lingers over lunch, while the 2 a.m. closing time draws off-duty chefs. A toast to proprietors Patrick St-Vincent and Angelo Rindone.
10 JANE’S ON THE COMMON
2394 Robie St., Halifax, 902-431-5683 www.janesonthecommon.com
This is the glorified diner we should all be so lucky to have in our neighbourhood, where friends mingle and the staff treats everyone like a regular. The low counter flanked by stools suggests surly short-order cooks, but the sharp contemporary decor hints at the kitchen’s ambitions. A definitive seafood chowder respects local traditions, while haddock in a cornbread coating with peach chutney spins a sophisticated update on a classic. Owner Jane Wright and chef Henry Strong have forged an instant institution. [ ]
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1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | The Foodies | Nov '04
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