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ICONS
Seven people who make Canada taste better.
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SUSUR LEE
Susur, Toronto
Text: CHRIS JOHNS
We liked the chef even before tasting his food. Anyone who can turn a rundown old restaurant into a temple of gastronomy and decorate it with black-velvet paintings and Pee Wee Herman dolls has to be doing something right. Susur Lees whimsical, iconoclastic approach to fine dining appeals to all of our senses, humour included. The cooking draws on his Asian heritage and European training and seamlessly blends these influences together in a style all his own. After a brief sojourn in Singapore, Lee returned to his adopted hometown of Toronto to open his namesake restaurant, Susur, making the city a mecca for food lovers who plan entire vacations around a reservation. And the Pee Wee dolls? "I want to give people a little warm feeling when they come in to relax and enjoy a feast," he says.
SOEUR ANGÈLE
Montréal
Text: MICHEL DEFOY
In the early 1980s, quebecers watched reruns of the Flying Nun, best known for leaping out of the frying pan and into the fire. Then along came a nun called Angèle, famous for her skill in the kitchen. Trading her cornet and habit for a chefs toque and apron, Sur Angèle with her high-pitched voice, thick Italian accent, cascading laugh and high-energy cooking style was an instant hit. She was no stuffed shirt; she cooked for ordinary people, preparing quick and easy dishes. With her straight-talking style, she never quite fit in at the straitlaced Radio-Canada, where she made her debut. She soon moved to a more commercial network. More TV cooks would follow (Maman Dion, for example), but no other chef has carved a place in Quebecs appetite like the cordon bleu nun. Since Sur Angèle, "TV dinner" has taken on a whole new meaning.
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